By the 1990s, it was the North Face Nuptse jacket holding court.Ī paninaro wearing a Moncler puffer jacket in Milan, Italy, in 1987. It wasn’t until the 1970s and Norma Kamali’s sleeping bag-inspired coat that the puffer returned to fashion, swiftly followed by the sort of thick, bright technical outdoors jackets worn by the Paninari, a Milanese subculture in the 1980s, who preferred Moncler, Timberland and Best Company. A year later, the couturier Charles James designed a satin quilted jacket to be worn as evening wear to the opera. The puffer coat long predates Balenciaga, of course, emerging in 1936 with Eddie Bauer’s goose down-insulated quilted jacket, which he designed for fishing trips, and took four years to patent. Even Theresa May’s got it on the look, wearing a Herno coat that grabbed headlines for its £750 price tag rather than its silhouette. Others simply credit it to trend fatigue – cottoning on to this, Patagonia advocated the idea of a coat-for-life with its “Don’t buy this jacket” campaign. Some blamed gorpcore, the hiking-wear trend in which Columbia coats infiltrated cities as well as mountains, for its success. The puffer swiftly trickled down to Urban Outfitters, M&S and Uniqlo, whose lightweight version became the most visible coat on the high street from 2018 onwards, morphing more recently into the “quilted school-run coat” – slimmer and more like an eiderdown than a duvet – as seen at Arket, Whistles and Cos.īalenciaga aside it is hard to pinpoint the exact moment the puffer became a thing. Quilted, down-filled and padded coats have been a seasonal phenomenon since 2016 when, in a rare crossover between wearability and high fashion, Balenciaga showed an off-shoulder version in bright red on the catwalk. The decline of the puffer is surprisingly big news in fashion. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty “It is constructed to hold a silhouette, not to slouch on to the body,” says H&M’s head of design, Ann-Sofie Johansson.Īn off-shoulder red puffer coat by Balenciaga during Paris fashion week womenswear fall-winter 2016-17. “It felt the time was right for heritage wools, as well as velvets and cords in bright colours.” H&M Studio, the high street giant’s limited-edition elevated range, which employs Savile Row pattern cutters in an all-female atelier, has made a full-length Italian wool tailored coat with sharp shoulders and a moulded waist a key piece for autumn. “We really leaned into our British heritage this season,” says Boden’s womenswear head, Lucy Rosenberg. Silhouettes are classic, but styles include a pink and khaki dogstooth and a lemon and camel chessboard check. (John Lewis’s bestselling dress for spring was a floral print – but a bold, abstract graphic rather than a ditsy blossom.) The smart coat revival is also taking off at Boden, where bold tailored outerwear are winter’s scene-stealers. It is not about cancelling what women want,” noted Ferrer. “We know people are very conscious of budget right now – it is important to show that smart coats can be affordable.” There will still be five puffer coats on the John Lewis shop floor, “just like we still have floral dresses. A toffee-coloured, clean-lined wool coat with traditional button fastenings from the John Lewis Anyday range will be on sale in September for £68.
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